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Step 6: Door

Picture of Door

I'm not a framer, carpenter, or other such, so I'm not going to give advice on how to hang a door. However, I did frame out the hexagon opening to accommodate a full size exterior door.

With this structure I've been trying to stay away from providing a permanent foundation, but this is a problem when it comes to a door which needs to be anchored to the ground in a precise way. Since I planned to add a stone walkway on both sides, I decided to sink some carefully leveled cinder blocks for my doorway support. I know from past experience that this kind of arrangement is very stable in my soil and climate, and unlikely to shift. It would not have worked at all on my previous property where everything was always sinking and drifting, but the blocks I set at a property nearby were still level and in position after 25 years, so it seemed safe.

The uprights were reinforced and braced. This was much harder than I expected because my wood was not straight. If there was one thing I could change about the door, it would be ensuring that both sides were as true as I could get them, and then doubling them up to make sure they stayed that way. As it was, shimming and adjusting was very difficult, and I used special screws so that I could adjust the push & pull between the door frame and the supports, rather than just holding it tight to it. I'm a much better gardener than I am a carpenter or framer

.I used a section of the thick outer plastic as a barrier between the door threshold and the bricks. This was further covered by mats on the inside and out, and sealed around with rocks. The door itself has a low-E (doesn't pass infrared) double pane glass inset and extra weatherstripping for a good seal.